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Tassel:
A tassel is a ball-shaped bunch of plaited or otherwise
entangled threads from which at one end protrudes a cord on
which the tassel is hung, and which may have loose, dangling
threads at the other end. Tassels are normally decorative
elements, and as such one often finds them attached, usually
along the bottom hem, to garments, curtains, or other
hangings; and to mortarboards.
The word 'tassel' comes from the Latin "tassau" which meant a
clasp (as for the neck of a garment), but also later served to
denote string ties, which were later terminated in
increasingly elaborate tassels. Today, tassels, or liripipes,
are found on mortarboards during graduation ceremonies, but
possibly also upon the shoes of the men there, really the only
other socially acceptable appearance of a tassel among men
today. That the tassel is really a universal ornament is seen
in versions in virtually every culture around the globe, and
even as the 'silk' on a corn stalk, on the breast of a tom
turkey, on the tasseled crab, and the "pine cone and tassel"
is the state flower of the American state of Maine.
Passementerie
In this craft, a tassel is primarily an ornament, and was,
of course, at first the casual termination of a cord to
prevent unraveling as its ends which were tied in knots with
the remainder of the cord hanging as shreds of it. As time
went on, various peoples developed greater or lesser
variations of this, until by the time of 16th century France,
there was constituted the first Guild of Passementiers who
formulated and documented the art of passementerie
(pronounced: pahs/mahn/TREE). This art form had the Tassel as
its primary expression, but also included Fringes (applied as
opposed to integral), Ornamental Cords, Galloons, Pompons,
Rosettes, and Gimps as other forms. Tassels, Pompons, and
Rosettes are point ornaments; the others are linear ornaments.
The parts of a tassel are basically, from top to bottom:
Its Suspending Cord
Its Body, which is usually made up of one or more Moulds
A Skirt of fringe or other ornaments.
The techniques of construction are too elaborate to list here,
but there have been a few good books on the subject in French
and a few in German. No significant writings on the art from
have been in English to date, though a number of minor works
have appeared recently about tassels due to the resurgence in
interest since around 1980.
Tassels were originally, in the Western World, a series of
windings of thread or string around a suspending string until
the desired curvature was attained. Decades later, the form
was of turned wooden moulds which were either covered in
simple wrappings or much more elaborate coverings called "Satinings."
This last technique involved an intricate binding of bands of
filament silk vertically around the mould by means of an
internal 'lacing' in the bore of the mould. These
constructions were varied and augmented with extensive
ornamentations that were each assigned an idiosyncratic term
by their French practitioners. Those practitioners were called
in France "Passementiers" (pronounced: pahs/mahn/TIERS), and
an apprenticeship of seven years was required to become a
master in one of the subdivisions of the guild. The French
widely exported their very artistic work, and at such low
prices that no other nation developed to mature a "Trimmings"
industry as it is called in English. Each era of decor found
tassels and their associated forms to be in different stylings
suitable to the period, from the small and casual of
Renaissance designs, through the medium sizes and more staid
designs of the Empire period, and to the Victorian Era with
the largest and most elaborate and formal to be seen. Some of
these designs are returning today from the European and
American artisans who may charge a thousand dollars for one
custom-made tassel, to the new innovations of the Chinese who
now have established factories that turn out less perfect, but
quite serviceable designs duplicating the best of the classic
patterns for as little as US$15. Since vitually all militaries
have adopted the very plain and service-oriented modern
uniforms, there is no longer any call for tassels in that
area, and the same goes for transportation and the clothes of
people in general, so it is almost entirely period decor that
is the sole remaining display of large, fine, tassels. |